Peter and Brenda’s Adventures

The Drake passaged settled for last hours of our crossing. Soon land appeared beckoning us to the Beagle Channel and announcing that our fantastic journey would be coming to an end. 

It has been quite a crossing. A strong gale kicked up 70 knot winds and waves of 6 -7 meters in height. It was a dark and stormy night and day. Our cabin has been rocking for the past 24 hours. Occasionally the ship shudders in these extreme conditions. Rattling noises are constant. Wine glasses hanging on the wall clink, drawers and closet doors swing open and sometimes slam shut violently. Anything not anchored found it’s way to the floor.  On the map above dark red and pink describe high winds and waves. While our ship is bravely making its way across this rocking and rolling ocean, several other vessels delayed departure from Ushuaia and the Beagle Channel today.

 Minke whales accompanied us as we made our way back to the Drake passage.  We estimate that the pod of five whale swam with us for about 5 minutes.

 We were privileged to spend some time kayaking in Half Moon Bay with inflatable kayaks. Chinstrap Penguins, Gentoo Penguins and Imperial Shags accompanied us.  When our group completed this adventure paddles were loaded into a zodiac and the kayaks were towed back to the ship.

    This is the only grass on Half Moon Bay. Wouldn’t want to take a divot here. 

 Crescent-shaped Half Moon Bay, in the Shetland Island was today’s destination. As we landed two Fur Seals challenged each other. We were warned not to approach them. Thousands of Chinstrap Penguins breed on this rock island. Their young are about three weeks old now. While these penguins nest on the highest ground available, they must return to the ocean to eat and clean themselves. As you can imagine with so many neighbours the little guys get quite dirty. Because the island is their home, we waited for passing Chinstraps on the penguin highway.  

 We were told the water was -1C. The plunge however was exhilarating. The hot tub and snow-chilled champagne afterwards were greatly appreciated.

Portal Point, once the site of the Cape Reclus Refuge - a hut used by explorers established in the 1950’s- was the site of our only continental Antarctic landing. Mushy snow and 3C temperatures quickly brought memories of early spring at home. However, the snow covered barren land reminded us of our true location. The vistas were breathtaking.  We took a  moment to savour this occasion. 

We were delighted to watch a parent and child humpback play in the Wilhelmina Bay.

Glaciers rumbled and thundered throughout the night.  In the morning we watched the glacier calf a small ice berg.  The ice fell Water splashed Waves rolled  And a small ice berg is born

 

These serene scenes, bathed in the faded light of Antarctic twilight were accented with the snorting blow of nearby whales, the tweets of birds and calls of seals.the calm of the Antarctic night was frequently severed by the thunderous roar of shifting ice.

 We were not the only inhabitants on Leith Cove. Besides penguins, Wendell and Leopard seals, joined many native birds to keep us entertained.